:root {
  --bg: #f6f5f2;
  --bg-deep: #eceae4;
  --ink: #121212;
  --ink-soft: #2a2a2a;
  --muted: #6f6c66;
  --line: rgba(18, 18, 18, 0.1);
  --surface: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.72);
  --accent: #9a7b4f;
  --accent-soft: #c4a574;
  --invert: #f6f5f2;
  --ok: #2d6a4f;
  --err: #9b2226;
  --info: #3d5a80;
  --font-display: "Bodoni Moda", "Times New Roman", serif;
  --font-body: "Jost", "Segoe UI", sans-serif;
  --max: 1200px;
  --ease: cubic-bezier(0.22, 1, 0.36, 1);
}

*, *::before, *::after { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { scroll-behavior: smooth; }
body {
  margin: 0;
  font-family: var(--font-body);
  font-weight: 400;
  color: var(--ink);
  background-color: var(--bg);
  background-image:
    radial-gradient(ellipse 90% 55% at 100% -10%, rgba(154, 123, 79, 0.12), transparent 55%),
    radial-gradient(ellipse 70% 40% at -10% 30%, rgba(18, 18, 18, 0.04), transparent 50%),
    linear-gradient(180deg, #faf9f6 0%, var(--bg) 35%, var(--bg-deep) 100%);
  min-height: 100vh;
  line-height: 1.6;
  letter-spacing: 0.01em;
  -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;
}
img { max-width: 100%; display: block; }
a {
  color: inherit;
  text-decoration-thickness: 1px;
  text-underline-offset: 0.2em;
  transition: color .25s var(--ease), opacity .25s var(--ease);
}
a:hover { color: var(--accent); }
button, input, select, textarea { font: inherit; color: inherit; }
:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--accent); outline-offset: 3px; }

.sr-only {
  position: absolute; width: 1px; height: 1px; padding: 0; margin: -1px;
  overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0, 0, 0, 0); border: 0;
}
.skip-link {
  position: absolute; left: 1rem; top: -4rem; z-index: 100;
  background: var(--ink); color: var(--invert); padding: .7rem 1rem;
}
.skip-link:focus { top: 1rem; }

/* Header */
.site-header {
  position: sticky; top: 0; z-index: 50;
  transition: background .35s var(--ease), border-color .35s var(--ease), color .35s var(--ease);
  background: rgba(246, 245, 242, 0.78);
  backdrop-filter: blur(16px) saturate(1.2);
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line);
}
.page-home .site-header {
  position: absolute; left: 0; right: 0;
  background: transparent;
  border-bottom-color: transparent;
  color: var(--invert);
}
.page-home .site-header.is-solid {
  position: sticky;
  background: rgba(246, 245, 242, 0.9);
  border-bottom-color: var(--line);
  color: var(--ink);
}
.site-header__inner {
  max-width: var(--max);
  margin: 0 auto;
  padding: 1.1rem 1.5rem;
  display: flex;
  align-items: center;
  justify-content: space-between;
  gap: 1rem;
}
.logo {
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-size: clamp(1.55rem, 2.4vw, 1.9rem);
  font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: -0.03em;
  text-decoration: none;
  font-style: italic;
}
.site-nav {
  display: flex;
  gap: 1.6rem;
  align-items: center;
}
.site-nav a {
  text-decoration: none;
  font-size: 0.92rem;
  font-weight: 450;
  letter-spacing: 0.04em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  opacity: 0.88;
}
.site-nav a:hover { opacity: 1; color: inherit; }
.page-home .site-header:not(.is-solid) .site-nav a:hover { color: var(--accent-soft); }
.nav-toggle {
  display: none;
  width: 2.6rem; height: 2.6rem;
  border: 1px solid currentColor;
  background: transparent;
  padding: 0;
  position: relative;
  color: inherit;
}
.nav-toggle span {
  position: absolute; left: .7rem; right: .7rem; height: 1px; background: currentColor;
  transition: transform .3s var(--ease), top .3s var(--ease);
}
.nav-toggle span:first-child { top: 1.05rem; }
.nav-toggle span:last-child { top: 1.45rem; }

/* Flash */
.flash-stack { max-width: var(--max); margin: 1rem auto 0; padding: 0 1.5rem; }
.page-home .flash-stack { position: relative; z-index: 5; margin-top: 5rem; }
.flash {
  padding: .9rem 1.1rem; margin-bottom: .5rem;
  border: 1px solid var(--line);
  background: var(--surface);
  backdrop-filter: blur(8px);
}
.flash--success { color: var(--ok); }
.flash--error { color: var(--err); }
.flash--info { color: var(--info); }

/* Buttons */
.btn {
  display: inline-flex;
  align-items: center;
  justify-content: center;
  gap: .5rem;
  padding: 0.95rem 1.6rem;
  border: 1px solid transparent;
  background: var(--ink);
  color: var(--invert);
  text-decoration: none;
  font-size: 0.85rem;
  font-weight: 500;
  letter-spacing: 0.08em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  cursor: pointer;
  transition: transform .35s var(--ease), background .25s, color .25s, border-color .25s;
}
.btn:hover {
  transform: translateY(-2px);
  background: var(--accent);
  color: #fff;
}
.btn--ghost {
  background: transparent;
  color: inherit;
  border-color: currentColor;
}
.btn--ghost:hover {
  background: var(--ink);
  color: var(--invert);
  border-color: var(--ink);
}
.page-home .hero .btn--ghost:hover {
  background: var(--invert);
  color: var(--ink);
  border-color: var(--invert);
}

/* Hero — one composition, brand first */
.hero {
  position: relative;
  min-height: 100vh;
  min-height: 100dvh;
  display: grid;
  align-items: end;
  overflow: hidden;
  color: var(--invert);
}
.hero__media {
  position: absolute;
  inset: 0;
  background:
    linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(10, 10, 10, 0.2) 0%, rgba(10, 10, 10, 0.5) 42%, rgba(10, 10, 10, 0.86) 100%),
    radial-gradient(ellipse 80% 60% at 72% 28%, rgba(154, 123, 79, 0.35), transparent 55%),
    radial-gradient(ellipse 50% 40% at 20% 80%, rgba(80, 60, 40, 0.45), transparent 60%),
    linear-gradient(145deg, #0e0e0e 0%, #1c1814 35%, #3a3024 68%, #12100e 100%);
  transform: scale(1.04);
  animation: heroZoom 18s var(--ease) infinite alternate;
}
.hero__content {
  position: relative;
  z-index: 1;
  width: 100%;
  max-width: var(--max);
  margin: 0 auto;
  padding: 7rem 1.5rem 4.5rem;
}
.hero__brand {
  margin: 0 0 1rem;
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-size: clamp(3.4rem, 11vw, 7.5rem);
  font-weight: 500;
  font-style: italic;
  line-height: 0.9;
  letter-spacing: -0.04em;
  animation: rise .9s var(--ease) both;
}
.hero__title {
  margin: 0 0 0.85rem;
  max-width: 16ch;
  font-family: var(--font-body);
  font-size: clamp(1.05rem, 2vw, 1.25rem);
  font-weight: 400;
  letter-spacing: 0.02em;
  line-height: 1.45;
  color: rgba(246, 245, 242, 0.9);
  animation: rise .9s .12s var(--ease) both;
}
.hero__lead {
  margin: 0 0 2rem;
  max-width: 34ch;
  font-size: 1rem;
  color: rgba(246, 245, 242, 0.72);
  animation: rise .9s .22s var(--ease) both;
}
.hero__actions {
  display: flex;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
  gap: 0.75rem;
  animation: rise .9s .32s var(--ease) both;
}
.hero__actions .btn {
  background: var(--invert);
  color: var(--ink);
  border-color: var(--invert);
}
.hero__actions .btn:hover {
  background: var(--accent);
  border-color: var(--accent);
  color: #fff;
}

/* Sections */
.section {
  max-width: var(--max);
  margin: 0 auto;
  padding: 5rem 1.5rem;
}
.section--soft {
  max-width: none;
  padding-left: max(1.5rem, calc((100% - var(--max)) / 2 + 1.5rem));
  padding-right: max(1.5rem, calc((100% - var(--max)) / 2 + 1.5rem));
  background:
    linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(18, 18, 18, 0.03), transparent 40%),
    linear-gradient(90deg, rgba(154, 123, 79, 0.05), transparent 40%);
  border-block: 1px solid var(--line);
}
.section__head {
  margin-bottom: 2.5rem;
  max-width: 36rem;
}
.section__head h2,
.page-intro h1,
.prose-page h1,
.auth-card h1 {
  margin: 0 0 0.6rem;
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-weight: 500;
  font-style: italic;
  font-size: clamp(2rem, 4vw, 3rem);
  letter-spacing: -0.03em;
  line-height: 1.1;
}
.section__head p,
.page-intro p {
  margin: 0;
  color: var(--muted);
  font-size: 1.02rem;
}

/* Place grid — borderless editorial */
.place-grid {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: repeat(3, minmax(0, 1fr));
  gap: 2.25rem 1.5rem;
}
.place-card {
  display: flex;
  flex-direction: column;
  gap: 0.95rem;
  opacity: 0;
  transform: translateY(18px);
  animation: rise .7s var(--ease) forwards;
}
.place-card:nth-child(1) { animation-delay: .05s; }
.place-card:nth-child(2) { animation-delay: .12s; }
.place-card:nth-child(3) { animation-delay: .18s; }
.place-card:nth-child(4) { animation-delay: .24s; }
.place-card:nth-child(5) { animation-delay: .3s; }
.place-card:nth-child(6) { animation-delay: .36s; }
.place-card__media {
  display: block;
  overflow: hidden;
  aspect-ratio: 4 / 5;
  background: #1a1a1a;
  text-decoration: none;
}
.place-card__media img {
  width: 100%;
  height: 100%;
  object-fit: cover;
  transition: transform 1s var(--ease);
}
.place-card:hover .place-card__media img { transform: scale(1.06); }
.place-card__cats {
  margin: 0;
  font-size: 0.72rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.12em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  color: var(--muted);
}
.place-card__cats a { text-decoration: none; }
.place-card__title {
  margin: 0.15rem 0;
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-size: 1.45rem;
  font-weight: 500;
  font-style: italic;
  letter-spacing: -0.02em;
  line-height: 1.15;
}
.place-card__title a { text-decoration: none; }
.place-card__visit {
  margin: 0.45rem 0 0;
  font-size: 0.72rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.1em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  color: var(--accent);
}
.place-card__loc {
  margin: 0;
  color: var(--muted);
  font-size: 0.92rem;
}

/* Editorial selections */
.editorial-rows { display: grid; gap: 0; }
.editorial-link {
  display: flex;
  align-items: baseline;
  justify-content: space-between;
  gap: 1rem;
  padding: 1.35rem 0;
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line);
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-size: clamp(1.6rem, 3vw, 2.35rem);
  font-style: italic;
  font-weight: 500;
  text-decoration: none;
  letter-spacing: -0.02em;
  transition: padding-left .4s var(--ease), color .25s;
}
.editorial-link::after {
  content: "→";
  font-family: var(--font-body);
  font-style: normal;
  font-size: 1rem;
  opacity: 0.4;
  transition: transform .35s var(--ease), opacity .35s;
}
.editorial-link:hover {
  padding-left: 0.75rem;
  color: var(--accent);
}
.editorial-link:hover::after {
  opacity: 1;
  transform: translateX(4px);
}

.dest-chips {
  display: flex;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
  gap: 0.65rem;
  margin: 0 auto 2rem;
  padding: 0 1.5rem;
  max-width: var(--max);
}
.dest-chips a {
  text-decoration: none;
  padding: 0.65rem 1rem;
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line);
  font-size: 0.95rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.02em;
  transition: border-color .25s, color .25s;
}
.dest-chips a:hover { border-color: var(--accent); }
.dest-chips span {
  margin-left: 0.4rem;
  color: var(--muted);
  font-size: 0.85rem;
}

.page-intro,
.prose-page,
.auth-card {
  max-width: var(--max);
  margin: 0 auto;
  padding: 4rem 1.5rem 1.5rem;
}
.prose-page,
.auth-card { max-width: 720px; }
.prose-page .lead {
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-style: italic;
  font-size: 1.55rem;
  line-height: 1.35;
  color: var(--ink-soft);
}
.prose-page blockquote {
  margin: 2.5rem 0;
  padding: 0;
  border: 0;
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-style: italic;
  font-size: clamp(1.5rem, 3vw, 2rem);
  line-height: 1.3;
  color: var(--ink);
}
.eyebrow {
  text-transform: uppercase;
  letter-spacing: 0.14em;
  font-size: 0.72rem;
  color: var(--muted);
}

/* Listing + filters */
.listing {
  max-width: var(--max);
  margin: 0 auto;
  padding: 0 1.5rem 5rem;
  display: grid;
  gap: 1.75rem;
}
.filters__bar {
  display: flex;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
  gap: 0.75rem 1.25rem;
  align-items: center;
}
.filters__count { margin: 0; font-weight: 500; letter-spacing: 0.04em; }
.filters__active { margin: 0; color: var(--muted); }
.filters__panel {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr);
  gap: 1rem;
  padding: 1.4rem;
  background: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.55);
  border: 1px solid var(--line);
  backdrop-filter: blur(10px);
}
.filters__panel label {
  display: grid;
  gap: 0.4rem;
  font-size: 0.78rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.08em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  color: var(--muted);
}
.filters__panel input,
.filters__panel select,
.stack-form input,
.stack-form select,
.stack-form textarea,
.admin-form input,
.admin-form select,
.admin-form textarea,
.search-hero input {
  width: 100%;
  padding: 0.8rem 0.9rem;
  border: 1px solid var(--line);
  border-radius: 0;
  background: #fff;
  color: var(--ink);
  text-transform: none;
  letter-spacing: 0;
  font-size: 1rem;
}
.filters__panel-head { display: none; }
.filters__actions {
  grid-column: 1 / -1;
  display: flex;
  gap: 0.75rem;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
  align-items: center;
}

.search-hero {
  max-width: var(--max);
  margin: 0 auto 2rem;
  padding: 0 1.5rem;
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 1fr auto;
  gap: 0.75rem;
}

/* Place detail */
.place-detail {
  max-width: var(--max);
  margin: 0 auto;
  padding: 3rem 1.5rem 5rem;
}
.place-detail__header { max-width: 42rem; margin-bottom: 2rem; }
.place-detail__loc {
  margin: 0;
  color: var(--muted);
}
.place-detail__visit {
  margin: 0.85rem 0 0;
  font-size: 0.78rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.12em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  color: var(--accent);
}
.place-detail__header h1 {
  margin: 0.35rem 0 0.6rem;
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-style: italic;
  font-weight: 500;
  font-size: clamp(2.4rem, 5vw, 4rem);
  letter-spacing: -0.03em;
  line-height: 1.05;
}
.gallery {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 1.45fr 1fr;
  gap: 0.55rem;
  margin-bottom: 2.5rem;
}
.gallery figure { margin: 0; overflow: hidden; background: #1a1a1a; }
.gallery img {
  width: 100%;
  height: 100%;
  object-fit: cover;
  aspect-ratio: 4/3;
  transition: transform 1.1s var(--ease);
}
.gallery figure:hover img { transform: scale(1.03); }
.gallery .is-cover { grid-row: span 2; }
.gallery .is-cover img { aspect-ratio: auto; min-height: 100%; }
.place-detail__grid {
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: 1.45fr 0.85fr;
  gap: 3rem;
}
.richtext p { margin-top: 0; font-size: 1.05rem; }
.free-field {
  margin-top: 2.5rem;
  padding: 1.5rem 0;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--line);
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line);
}
.free-field h2 {
  margin: 0 0 0.5rem;
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-style: italic;
  font-size: 1.4rem;
  font-weight: 500;
}
.place-detail__aside section { margin-bottom: 2rem; }
.place-detail__aside h2 {
  margin: 0 0 0.75rem;
  font-size: 0.72rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.14em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  color: var(--muted);
  font-weight: 500;
}
.contact-list {
  list-style: none;
  padding: 0;
  margin: 0;
  display: grid;
  gap: 0.45rem;
}
.preview-banner {
  background: var(--ink);
  color: var(--invert);
  text-align: center;
  padding: 0.75rem;
  font-size: 0.85rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.06em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
}

.dest-tree {
  max-width: var(--max);
  margin: 0 auto;
  padding: 0 1.5rem 5rem;
  display: grid;
  gap: 2.5rem;
}
.dest-block h2 {
  display: flex;
  gap: 0.85rem;
  align-items: baseline;
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-style: italic;
  font-weight: 500;
}
.dest-block h2 span,
.dest-block li span {
  color: var(--muted);
  font-family: var(--font-body);
  font-style: normal;
  font-size: 0.9rem;
}
.dest-block ul {
  list-style: none;
  padding: 0;
  margin: 0;
  display: grid;
  gap: 0.5rem;
}

.pagination {
  display: flex;
  gap: 1.25rem;
  align-items: center;
  margin-top: 2.5rem;
  font-size: 0.9rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.04em;
}
.auth-card {
  margin-top: 2rem;
  margin-bottom: 5rem;
  padding: 2.25rem;
  background: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0.65);
  border: 1px solid var(--line);
  backdrop-filter: blur(10px);
}
.stack-form { display: grid; gap: 1rem; }
.stack-form label,
.admin-form label { display: grid; gap: 0.4rem; }
.auth-links { margin-top: 1.25rem; color: var(--muted); }

.site-footer {
  margin-top: 2rem;
  border-top: 1px solid var(--line);
  padding: 3rem 1.5rem;
  background: #121212;
  color: rgba(246, 245, 242, 0.88);
}
.site-footer__inner {
  max-width: var(--max);
  margin: 0 auto;
  display: flex;
  justify-content: space-between;
  gap: 1.5rem;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
}
.footer-brand {
  margin: 0;
  font-family: var(--font-display);
  font-style: italic;
  font-size: 1.7rem;
  font-weight: 500;
}
.footer-tagline {
  margin: 0.45rem 0 0;
  max-width: 28ch;
  color: rgba(246, 245, 242, 0.55);
}
.footer-nav {
  display: flex;
  gap: 1.25rem;
  flex-wrap: wrap;
  align-items: flex-start;
}
.footer-nav a {
  text-decoration: none;
  font-size: 0.85rem;
  letter-spacing: 0.06em;
  text-transform: uppercase;
  opacity: 0.75;
}
.footer-nav a:hover { opacity: 1; color: var(--accent-soft); }

@keyframes rise {
  from { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(22px); }
  to { opacity: 1; transform: translateY(0); }
}
@keyframes heroZoom {
  from { transform: scale(1.04); }
  to { transform: scale(1.1); }
}

@media (max-width: 960px) {
  .place-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, minmax(0, 1fr)); gap: 1.75rem 1.1rem; }
  .filters__panel { grid-template-columns: 1fr 1fr; }
  .gallery,
  .place-detail__grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .gallery .is-cover { grid-row: auto; }
}

@media (max-width: 720px) {
  .nav-toggle { display: inline-block; }
  .site-nav {
    display: none;
    position: absolute;
    left: 0; right: 0; top: 100%;
    flex-direction: column;
    align-items: stretch;
    gap: 0;
    padding: 0.5rem 1.5rem 1.2rem;
    background: #121212;
    color: var(--invert);
    border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.08);
  }
  .page-home .site-header.is-solid .site-nav,
  body:not(.page-home) .site-nav {
    background: rgba(246, 245, 242, 0.98);
    color: var(--ink);
  }
  .site-nav.is-open { display: flex; }
  .site-nav a {
    padding: 0.85rem 0;
    border-bottom: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,0.08);
  }
  .place-grid { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .place-card__media { aspect-ratio: 5 / 4; }
  .filters__panel {
    display: none;
    position: fixed;
    inset: 0;
    z-index: 60;
    grid-template-columns: 1fr;
    overflow: auto;
    padding: 1.25rem;
    background: #f6f5f2;
  }
  .filters__panel.is-open { display: grid; }
  .filters__panel-head {
    display: flex;
    justify-content: space-between;
    align-items: center;
  }
  .filters__close {
    border: 0;
    background: transparent;
    font-size: 1.8rem;
    line-height: 1;
  }
  .search-hero { grid-template-columns: 1fr; }
  .hero__content { padding: 6.5rem 1.25rem 3rem; }
  .section { padding: 3.5rem 1.25rem; }
}